In Trombay's busy wholesale market at 7 a.m. on a spirited Saptami* market day, diverse fisherwomen convene. This gathering isn't solely about commerce; it's a convergence of traditions, skills, and livelihoods woven with the movements of sea tides.

Women boat owners  haggle over fish rates with retail vendors, women call out for crates and baskets, javla dryers await the arrival of boats at the jetty, sorters diligently clean the freshly unloaded catch on tarpaulins, rickshaws linger as vendors load their fish, buses navigate through this market that also functions as a bus depot, customers eagerly bargain for fresh fish, women engage in banter, occasional squabbles, bursts of laughter, gossip, and myriad conversations.

The metaphor of a "fish market" is often used derogatorily to describe chaotic and disorganized places. But Trombay’s market only seems chaotic. On looking closely it untangles into the unique, self-organized space of  a macchi (fish) market.

It's fascinating how in Trombay, the traditional space designated by the fishing village for boat unloading and the auction market, known as dhakka, has evolved into three distinct parts: vara, jetty, and market. Fishers offload their catch at the jetty, then transport the haul to the market for auctioning, and finally, the boats are parked at the vara. The term "dhakka" is a fluid one encompassing all of these spaces and specific uses. Earlier, the boats would unload the fish directly at the dhakka’s market space.

But over the last 30 years or so the sea has receded from Trombay Koliwada. The jetty has had to be extended to reach the sea and the unloading spot has shifted over a kilometer away from the market area.  This has led to a clear distinction between the spaces of Dhakka, Vara, and Jetty, and a new vocabulary for Trombay.


Trombay is renowned for its distinct Creek prawns and shrimp, making these two species the focal point of its market trade. Fishers bring in their catch to the jetty, which is then transported to the market for auctioning.

However, an issue arose in 1987 when the State Government legally transferred part of Trombay's dhakka to the Brihammumbai Electricity and Transport Department (BEST) to develop a bus depot. This decision sparked a legal dispute between the village and the BEST, leading to an ongoing battle. As a result, buses are parked directly within the market area. This tussle between bus drivers and women fish sellers for claiming market space has become part of everyday life in this market.


The market extends to include a large drying ground. Initially utilized for fish sale in the morning, this same space undergoes a transformation later in the day, becoming a shrimp drying ground managed by the women who dry fish. In the mornings, wholesalers and retailers of both fresh and dry fish conduct business with their respective customers. Their clientele consists of women retail fish vendors  and household consumers residing in nearby neighbourhoods, some of whom purchase fish after their morning walk in the area.


Trombay boasts a unique crab and mudskipper species, harvested by both male and female fishers using diverse fishing methods. These fishers also vend their catch within the same auction market. Positioned close to a cluster of  salt pans, Trombay sees its fisherwomen heading there to capture a shrimp species known as kala kolim, which finds its way to this market for sale. Every morning, retailers from various parts of Mumbai arrive to procure kala kolim. Additionally, groups of fisherwomen from Trombay venture to Mumbai's rocky coasts, gathering rock oysters and clams to sell in this market. Some women even source fresh and dry fish species not found in Trombay from Bhaucha Dhakka (Ferry Wharf) and Sassoon Dock to retail in this market.


In addition to fish, various fishing-related items like baskets and ice find their way to this market for sale. A tea and snack stall, a dumping area, and several rickshaws also support the market's operations.

As the morning progresses, you can spot vendors' baskets and crates neatly stacked along the market's edges. Leaving these items behind after-market hours isn't just a matter of convenience but also serves as a means to reserve their spots daily. Birds, including crows and kites, hover over the dhakka, scavenging for crabs and leftover fish, while cats and dogs linger around during market hours in hopes of snagging fresh fish brought in from the jetty. On one side of the market, leftover and inedible fish are spread out to dry, to be later sold for compost.

Throughout the day, the dhakka undergoes a metamorphosis to accommodate various activities. After the bustling market hours of the morning, the space transforms. Afternoons are tranquil, draped in black tarpaulins with white javla spread across it for drying.

In these hours, the quiet dhakka naps peacefully, the faint sound of crashing waves along the coast in the background. As the fish dryers neatly fold and store away the tarpaulins under the trees, groups of boys claim the space as a cricket ground in the evening. It's play time for the dhakka now!

The changing activities and rhythm of daily life of the dhakka are reflected also in its smellscape. In the mornings, the air is redolent with the scent of fresh fish, while the afternoons emanate the sea-like aroma of drying javla. By evening, the faint odor of leftover fish from the dumpster and the dhakka's edges fills the air.